Aluminum Fishing Boat Post-Trip Checklist

A fishing trip isn’t quite finished when the boat comes out of the water.

Taking a few minutes to inspect, clean and properly store your boat after each trip can prevent small problems from becoming expensive ones.

This is especially important with aluminum fishing boats. Water, mud, vegetation, fish residue, salt, battery connections and wet equipment can all create problems when they’re left sitting until the next trip.

The Tin Can Boat Works Post-Trip Checklist is designed to create a simple routine for aluminum jon boats and V-hulls.

You don’t need to perform a complete maintenance service every time you fish.

The goal is much simpler:

Clean it. Check it. Charge it. Dry it. Get it ready for next time.

Quick Post-Trip Checklist

At the Ramp

• Boat properly secured to trailer
• Bow winch strap secured
• Safety connection secured where equipped
• Transom tie-downs installed
• Outboard positioned properly for towing
• Trolling motor secured
• Drain plug removed when appropriate
• Livewell drained
• Bilge drained
• Loose equipment secured
• Trailer lights checked before entering traffic

At Home

• Hull rinsed or washed as needed
• Saltwater thoroughly rinsed from boat and trailer
• Outboard flushed when required
• Propeller checked for fishing line and damage
• Compartments opened and allowed to dry
• Wet equipment removed
• Batteries inspected
• Batteries charged
• Electrical connections visually checked
• Trolling motor inspected
• Trailer tires and hubs checked
• Fish residue and bait cleaned from boat
• Boat stored with proper ventilation
• Cover installed when appropriate

If something broke, leaked, loosened or didn’t work correctly during the trip, don’t leave it for next time.

Make a note and address it while you still remember what happened.

Secure the Boat Before Leaving the Ramp

Before pulling away from the ramp area, make sure the boat is properly positioned and secured on the trailer.

Check:

• Bow eye
• Winch strap
• Winch
• Safety connection where equipped
• Transom tie-downs
• Outboard position
• Trolling motor
• Loose equipment

Walk around the entire rig before entering traffic.

Fishing rods, landing nets, life jackets, seat cushions and compartment lids have a habit of becoming airborne when they’re forgotten.

Remove the Drain Plug When Appropriate

If your boat is stored with the drain plug removed, take it out after retrieving the boat and once you’re in an appropriate area to allow water to drain.

Also drain accessible areas such as:

• Bilge
• Livewell
• Coolers
• Storage compartments designed to drain

Don’t allow water to sit unnecessarily inside the boat.

Standing water can contribute to mildew, corrosion, deterioration of materials and unnecessary weight.

Follow applicable rules regarding draining water and preventing the transport of aquatic plants or invasive species.

Check the Bilge

Pay attention to how much water comes out of the boat.

A small amount of water from spray, rain or normal use may not be surprising.

An unusual amount deserves attention.

If the boat is taking on more water than normal, don’t simply drain it and forget about it.

Consider where the water may be coming from.

Possible sources include:

• Leaking rivets
• Damaged seams
• Cracks
• Drain fittings
• Plumbing
• Livewell systems
• Spray or waves
• Rainwater

Changes are often more important than the amount itself.

If a normally dry boat suddenly has substantial water in the bilge, find out why.

Rinse the Boat

How much cleaning is necessary depends on where and how you used the boat.

A freshwater boat that spent a few hours on a clean lake may need little more than basic cleanup.

A boat covered in mud, vegetation, bait residue or fish slime needs more attention.

Saltwater use deserves a thorough freshwater rinse.

Pay attention to:

• Hull
• Transom
• Deck
• Flooring
• Hardware
• Trolling motor
• Trailer
• Wheels
• Springs
• Hubs
• Bunks
• Winch
• Other components exposed to saltwater

Salt doesn’t need an invitation to start attacking metal.

The sooner it’s removed, the better.

Be Careful What You Use on Aluminum

Aluminum is durable, but that doesn’t mean every household cleaner belongs on it.

Some chemicals can discolor, stain or react with aluminum or damage coatings and other materials used in the boat.

Use products appropriate for the surfaces you’re cleaning.

That includes considering whether the boat has:

• Bare aluminum
• Painted aluminum
• Marine coatings
• EVA foam
• Vinyl
• Carpet
• Plastic
• Rubber components

When trying a new cleaning product, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and verify that it’s compatible with the surface.

More aggressive isn’t automatically better.

Clean Up Fish and Bait Residue

Fish slime, scales, blood, bait and spilled livewell water are much easier to clean today than several days from now.

Pay particular attention to:

• Decks
• Flooring
• Livewells
• Coolers
• Storage compartments
• Cutting surfaces
• Landing nets

Besides odor and staining, organic material left inside a warm boat can create a pretty unpleasant surprise the next time you uncover it.

A fishing boat doesn’t need to be spotless.

It does need to be reasonably clean and dry.

Flush the Outboard When Required

Follow the outboard manufacturer’s recommendations for flushing and post-use maintenance.

This becomes especially important after operation in saltwater, brackish water or other conditions where contaminants may remain in the cooling system.

Depending on the engine, flushing procedures may vary.

Don’t assume the procedure for one outboard applies to another.

Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific motor.

While you’re around the engine, take a quick look for:

• Fuel leaks
• Oil leaks
• Loose components
• Damaged wiring
• Cooling-system concerns
• Propeller damage
• Anything that changed during the trip

Inspect the Propeller

Fishing line around the propeller shaft is easy to miss.

Check the propeller after fishing, especially if you remember running through line, vegetation or debris.

Look for:

• Fishing line
• Bent blades
• Large nicks
• Cracks
• Other damage

Line wrapped tightly around the propeller shaft can potentially damage seals.

Removing it now is much easier than discovering a problem later.

Look Over the Hull

Retrieving the boat is a good opportunity to check for damage that may have occurred during the trip.

Think back.

Did you hit a stump?

Slide across rocks?

Beach the boat?

Strike something you couldn’t see?

Inspect questionable areas for:

• New dents
• Cracks
• Damaged rivets
• Damaged welds
• Scrapes
• Deformation
• Coating damage

Most marks on a working aluminum fishing boat will be cosmetic.

But if you know the boat took a hard impact, don’t assume everything is fine simply because it made it back to the ramp.

Let Compartments Dry

Water trapped inside closed compartments can create mildew, odors and corrosion.

Once the boat is safely stored, open appropriate compartments and allow moisture to escape.

Pay particular attention to:

• Battery compartments
• Storage compartments
• Rod lockers
• Livewells
• Coolers
• Areas containing wet life jackets
• Compartments containing anchors or wet rope

Remove soaked equipment rather than sealing it inside the boat.

Good ventilation is one of the simplest forms of boat maintenance.

Check the Batteries

If you used the trolling motor heavily, don’t wait until the night before your next fishing trip to discover the battery needs attention.

Inspect the battery area.

Look for:

• Loose terminals
• Corrosion
• Damaged cables
• Damaged battery cases
• Excessive movement
• Unusual heat
• Moisture or contamination

Recharge batteries according to the battery and charger manufacturers’ instructions.

If your boat uses multiple batteries, understand what each battery powers and how each should be charged.

A battery that’s repeatedly left discharged may not provide the service life you expect from it.

Inspect the Electrical System

You don’t need to trace every wire after every trip.

Instead, pay attention to anything unusual that happened while you were fishing.

Did the fish finder shut off?

Did a light flicker?

Did a fuse blow?

Did the trolling motor lose power?

Did the bilge pump fail to operate?

Those symptoms are telling you something.

Don’t simply assume they’ll disappear before the next trip.

Inspect the affected system while the problem is still fresh in your mind.

Check the Trolling Motor

Look over the trolling motor before storing the boat.

Check:

• Propeller
• Shaft
• Mount
• Wiring
• Plug and receptacle
• Foot pedal
• Cables
• Remote where applicable

Remove vegetation or fishing line from the propeller.

If the motor behaved differently during the trip—vibration, unusual noise, intermittent power or steering problems—investigate before the next outing.

Don’t Forget the Trailer

The trailer just went swimming too.

This is particularly important after saltwater use.

Rinse the trailer thoroughly when appropriate, including areas that may not be obvious from above.

Look over:

• Tires
• Wheels
• Hubs
• Bearings
• Springs
• Axle
• Bunks
• Rollers
• Winch
• Coupler
• Safety chains
• Lights
• Wiring

Pay attention to anything that became unusually hot while towing.

If one hub is noticeably hotter than the others, don’t ignore it.

Trailer problems rarely improve by themselves.

Inspect the Bunks

Trailer bunks support the hull every time the boat is stored and transported.

Look for:

• Loose hardware
• Torn covering
• Exposed fasteners
• Rotten or damaged material
• Shifting
• Improper hull contact

An exposed screw or damaged bunk can continually rub against the same area of an aluminum hull.

That’s an inexpensive trailer problem that can eventually become a boat problem.

Remove What Doesn’t Need to Stay in the Boat

Some equipment is better stored somewhere else between trips.

Depending on your setup, consider removing:

• Wet clothing
• Towels
• Food
• Bait
• Trash
• Electronics
• Valuable fishing equipment
• Damp life jackets
• Anything likely to mildew

This also gives you an opportunity to reorganize the boat before the next trip.

Yesterday’s empty water bottles have a remarkable ability to become permanent boat accessories.

Store Fishing Rods and Tackle Properly

Don’t forget the equipment that actually caught the fish.

Rinse and maintain fishing equipment as appropriate for the conditions in which it was used.

Saltwater equipment deserves particular attention.

Check rods, reels and tackle for damage while you’re putting them away.

A damaged guide or reel problem discovered now can be corrected before the next fishing trip.

Store the Boat So Water Can Escape

How a boat sits between trips matters.

Whenever practical, store it so rainwater and residual water can drain appropriately rather than collecting inside the hull.

If you use a cover, make sure the setup doesn’t create a sealed, damp environment.

A cover should protect the boat while still allowing appropriate ventilation.

Inspect the cover periodically for areas where water can pool.

A hundred gallons of rainwater sitting in a sagging boat cover wasn’t part of the boat’s original capacity calculation.

Keep the Drain Plug With the Boat

If you remove the drain plug for storage, develop a consistent place to keep it.

The goal is to allow the boat to drain without creating tomorrow morning’s:

“Where did I put the plug?”

problem.

Whatever system you choose, use the same one every time.

Consistency prevents mistakes.

Write Down Problems Before You Forget

This is one of the easiest habits to overlook.

If something didn’t work properly during the trip, make a note.

Examples:

• Navigation light intermittent
• Trolling motor plug getting warm
• Fish finder shut off twice
• Trailer light not working
• Bilge pump sounded unusual
• Motor difficult to start
• Boat seemed to take on more water
• Trailer tire losing pressure

Don’t trust yourself to remember three weeks later.

For a documented Tin Can build, the Digital Owner’s Manual can eventually provide a convenient place to keep equipment specifications and maintenance information so troubleshooting is easier.

Freshwater vs. Saltwater Post-Trip Care

The basic routine is similar, but saltwater requires additional attention.

After saltwater use, freshwater rinsing should include components exposed to salt spray or immersion, particularly:

• Hull
• Outboard
• Trolling motor
• Trailer
• Hardware
• Electrical connections
• Fishing equipment

Follow manufacturer recommendations for the outboard, trolling motor, electronics and other equipment.

Saltwater fishing isn’t a problem for properly equipped boats.

Leaving salt on everything afterward is.

Create a Post-Trip Routine

Just like the pre-launch inspection, post-trip maintenance becomes easier when you perform it in the same order.

A simple routine might be:

Secure → drain → rinse → motor → hull → batteries → equipment → trailer → dry → store.

It doesn’t need to take all afternoon.

The goal is to catch problems, remove contaminants and leave the boat ready for its next trip.

The Best Time to Prepare for the Next Fishing Trip Is Now

There’s something satisfying about backing the boat into its storage spot knowing it’s already ready to go again.

Batteries are charging.

Fuel needs are known.

Equipment is dry.

The trailer is good.

Nothing is sitting in the bottom of the boat growing fur.

And any problem you noticed on the water is already on the list to be addressed.

That’s the purpose of the Tin Can Boat Works Owner’s Guide.

A small amount of care after every trip helps keep a small aluminum fishing boat doing what it was built to do.

Fish. Come home. Take care of it. Go fishing again.

Tin Can Boat Works

Small Boats. Serious Fishing.