Phone:
(701)814-6992
Physical address:
6296 Donnelly Plaza
Ratkeville, Bahamas.
Outboard Motor Care & Maintenance
Jump To:
Quick Checks | Fuel | Oil & Lubrication | Cooling & Flushing | Propeller & Lower Unit | Controls & Electrical | Corrosion | Storage | Maintenance Records
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Quick Outboard Inspection
Before heading to the water, take a few minutes to look over the motor.
Before the Trip
Check:
- Fuel level
- Fuel tank and fuel lines
- Fuel fittings
- Engine oil where applicable
- Propeller condition
- Motor mounting
- Steering operation
- Control cables
- Electrical connections
- Battery condition for electric-start motors
- Trim and tilt operation where equipped
- Visible leaks
- General condition
After the Trip
Check:
- Propeller for damage
- Propeller shaft area for fishing line
- Motor for visible leaks
- Cooling-water performance during operation
- Fuel-system condition
- Lower unit for obvious damage
- Motor mounting
- Anything that behaved differently during the trip
After saltwater use, follow the manufacturer’s flushing and cleaning recommendations for your particular engine.
If something changed during the trip, investigate it before the next one.
Start With the Owner’s Manual
Every outboard owner should have access to the owner’s manual for the motor.
The manual provides information specific to that engine, including:
- Recommended fuel
- Engine oil requirements
- Gear lubricant
- Spark plugs
- Maintenance intervals
- Flushing procedures
- Winterization or storage procedures
- Propeller information
- Warning systems
- Operating procedures
If you own a used motor and didn’t receive the manual, check whether the manufacturer provides a digital copy.
For a documented Tin Can build, the Digital Owner’s Manual can identify the installed outboard and provide available manufacturer information for that particular engine.
Check the Motor Mounting
The outboard needs to remain securely attached to the boat.
Periodically inspect:
- Mounting bolts or clamps
- Bracket
- Transom
- Hardware
- Steering components
- Areas around mounting holes
Look for:
- Loose hardware
- Movement
- Cracks
- Corrosion
- Transom flex
- Elongated mounting holes
- Other changes
Don’t inspect the outboard without also paying attention to what it’s mounted to.
A solid motor attached to a deteriorated transom isn’t a solid installation.
Check the Fuel Before Leaving
Running out of fuel isn’t technically an engine failure.
It still ends the fishing trip.
Know how much fuel is aboard and understand your boat’s normal fuel consumption.
When using portable tanks, inspect:
- Tank
- Cap
- Venting system
- Fuel line
- Primer bulb where applicable
- Connectors
- Fittings
Look for cracking, deterioration, leaks or damaged components.
If you smell a strong unexplained fuel odor, determine why before operating the boat.
Use the Correct Fuel
Follow the engine manufacturer’s fuel recommendations.
Requirements can vary based on engine design and age.
Pay attention to:
- Recommended octane
- Ethanol guidance
- Fuel additives
- Storage recommendations
- Oil-mixing requirements for applicable two-stroke engines
Don’t assume advice that applies to one outboard automatically applies to another.
If the manufacturer specifies a fuel requirement, that’s the specification that matters.
Don’t Let Old Fuel Become a Problem
Fishing boats sometimes sit longer than their owners expect.
Fuel that was supposed to be used next weekend can still be in the tank months later.
Follow the engine manufacturer’s recommendations for fuel storage and stabilization.
If the boat will sit for an extended period, plan for it rather than simply parking the boat and hoping the fuel remains fine indefinitely.
Fuel-related problems are easier to prevent than diagnose at the ramp.
Two-Stroke and Four-Stroke Motors Have Different Needs
Not every outboard lubricates itself the same way.
Traditional two-stroke motors may use oil mixed with the fuel or an oil-injection system.
Four-stroke motors use engine oil that requires periodic checking and replacement.
Some modern two-stroke designs use their own manufacturer-specified lubrication systems.
Know which engine you own.
Know which oil it requires.
Know how its lubrication system works.
And don’t substitute guesswork for the manufacturer’s specifications.
Check Four-Stroke Engine Oil
For four-stroke outboards, check engine oil according to the manufacturer’s procedure.
That matters because the correct checking procedure can vary.
Use the specified:
- Oil type
- Viscosity
- Quantity
- Filter where applicable
- Service interval
Watch for unexpected changes in oil level or appearance.
If something doesn’t look normal, determine why rather than simply adding more oil.
Watch the Cooling System
An outboard depends on its cooling system.
When operating the engine, become familiar with what normal cooling-water discharge looks like for your particular motor.
A weak or missing indicator stream can have several possible causes and shouldn’t automatically be ignored.
Depending on the engine, problems may involve:
- Blocked indicator outlet
- Water intake obstruction
- Water pump
- Impeller
- Thermostat
- Other cooling-system components
If the engine shows signs of overheating or activates an overheat warning, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and address the problem before continuing normal operation.
Never Run the Outboard Dry
Unless the manufacturer specifically provides another approved procedure, an outboard shouldn’t be operated without the required cooling-water supply.
If running the engine on land using flushing equipment, follow the manufacturer’s exact procedure.
Improperly running an outboard without adequate water can damage the water-pump impeller and potentially overheat the engine.
A few seconds of convenience isn’t worth an engine repair.
Flushing the Outboard
Flushing requirements vary by engine and operating environment.
Saltwater use generally makes proper flushing particularly important.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for:
- Flushing method
- Engine position
- Whether the engine should be running
- Water supply
- Duration
- Flushing-port use
Don’t assume every flushing attachment is used the same way.
Some engines have dedicated flushing ports with specific procedures.
Others may use an external water supply differently.
The owner’s manual wins.
Inspect the Water Intakes
Before operating the motor, make sure cooling-water intake areas aren’t blocked by:
- Vegetation
- Mud
- Plastic
- Debris
- Other material
This is particularly worth checking after operating in shallow, weedy or muddy water.
An outboard can’t cool properly if it can’t get water.
Inspect the Propeller
The propeller is one of the easiest parts of an outboard to inspect and one of the easiest to damage.
Look for:
- Bent blades
- Large nicks
- Cracks
- Missing material
- Unusual wear
A badly damaged propeller can affect:
- Performance
- Acceleration
- Engine RPM
- Fuel efficiency
- Vibration
If the boat suddenly performs differently after striking something, inspect the propeller before assuming the engine developed a problem.
Check for Fishing Line Around the Prop Shaft
This deserves special attention on a fishing boat.
Fishing line can become wrapped around the propeller shaft and work its way toward the gearcase seals.
Periodically remove or inspect behind the propeller according to the manufacturer’s recommended procedure.
If you find line tightly wrapped around the shaft, remove it and inspect the area.
A few yards of discarded fishing line can become a surprisingly expensive piece of equipment.
Carry an Appropriate Spare Propeller Setup
For boats used far from the ramp, carrying appropriate propeller-related spares can be worthwhile.
Depending on the motor, that may include:
- Spare propeller
- Correct prop hardware
- Appropriate tools
Know how your particular propeller is installed before you’re trying to figure it out while floating against a shoreline.
Inspect the Lower Unit
The lower unit lives a difficult life.
It’s underwater, close to the bottom and frequently the first part of the motor to encounter submerged objects.
Inspect it for:
- Impact damage
- Cracks
- Damaged skeg
- Oil leakage
- Propeller damage
- Fishing line
- Other changes
A scraped skeg isn’t necessarily a major problem.
A cracked housing or evidence of lubricant leakage deserves considerably more attention.
Maintain the Gear Lubricant
Lower-unit gear lubricant should be serviced according to the engine manufacturer’s schedule.
When gear lubricant is changed, its condition can provide useful information.
Water contamination or abnormal metal may indicate a problem that deserves investigation.
Use the lubricant specified for the engine.
This is another maintenance item where the correct product matters more than whatever happens to be sitting on the garage shelf.
Water Pump and Impeller Maintenance
The water-pump impeller is a wear item.
Replacement intervals vary by manufacturer, engine and use.
Follow the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule rather than waiting for the cooling system to stop working.
Boats frequently operated in:
- Sand
- Mud
- Shallow water
- Heavy vegetation
- Saltwater
may place different demands on cooling-system components.
Know your operating conditions and maintain the motor accordingly.
Inspect Steering
Before leaving the ramp, make sure the motor turns smoothly through the expected steering range.
Depending on the boat, steering may involve:
- Tiller
- Mechanical steering cable
- Hydraulic steering
- Other systems
Look for:
- Binding
- Excessive play
- Corrosion
- Damaged components
- Leaks in hydraulic systems
- Loose hardware
Steering isn’t a system to troubleshoot after you’ve left the dock.
Inspect Controls
For remote-controlled outboards, pay attention to the throttle and shift controls.
Operation should feel consistent.
Changes such as:
- Excessive stiffness
- Unusual looseness
- Difficulty shifting
- Binding
- Damaged cables
deserve attention.
Don’t force controls that suddenly stop operating normally.
Find out why.
Check Trim and Tilt
If equipped with power trim and tilt, operate the system periodically and look for:
- Smooth movement
- Unusual noises
- Hydraulic leaks
- Damaged wiring
- Corrosion
- Unexpected movement
Manual tilt mechanisms should also be inspected and maintained according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Inspect Electrical Connections
Electric-start outboards depend on good electrical connections.
Periodically inspect:
- Battery terminals
- Engine cables
- Connectors
- Wiring
- Grounds
- Fuses
Look for corrosion, looseness, damage and overheating.
A starter that suddenly seems weak may not necessarily be a bad starter.
Battery condition, voltage and connections should also be considered.
Listen to the Motor
You operate your boat often enough to learn how the engine normally sounds.
Pay attention to changes.
Examples include:
- New vibration
- Knocking
- Rattling
- Unusual exhaust sound
- Different idle
- Difficulty starting
- Hesitation
- Loss of power
Not every strange sound means something catastrophic happened.
But a new sound is information.
Don’t turn the radio up to fix it.
Pay Attention to Warning Systems
Modern outboards may use audible alarms, indicator lights, displays or engine-protection systems.
Know what the warnings for your particular motor mean.
They may indicate conditions involving:
- Overheating
- Oil pressure
- Oil level
- Charging system
- Engine management
- Other faults
Don’t assume an alarm is optional information.
Consult the engine documentation and respond appropriately.
Saltwater Outboard Care
Saltwater requires additional attention.
After saltwater use, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for:
- Flushing
- Exterior rinsing
- Corrosion protection
- Lubrication
- Anode inspection
- Electrical connections
Pay particular attention to salt accumulation around brackets, hardware and areas that are difficult to rinse.
Saltwater isn’t automatically bad for an outboard designed for marine use.
Leaving salt on it indefinitely is.
Inspect Sacrificial Anodes
Many outboards use sacrificial anodes as part of their corrosion-protection system.
Their location, type and replacement criteria vary by engine.
Inspect them according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
An anode is supposed to deteriorate as part of doing its job.
An anode that is significantly consumed may need replacement.
Don’t paint over sacrificial anodes unless the manufacturer specifically directs otherwise.
Keep the Exterior Clean
Occasionally cleaning the outboard helps you inspect it.
A clean motor makes it easier to see:
- Leaks
- Corrosion
- Loose hardware
- Damaged wiring
- Cracks
- Other changes
You don’t need to polish the cowling after every fishing trip.
You should be able to see what’s happening underneath the dirt.
Long-Term Storage
If the boat won’t be used for an extended period, prepare the motor according to the manufacturer’s storage procedure.
Depending on the engine, that may involve attention to:
- Fuel
- Engine oil
- Gear lubricant
- Cooling system
- Battery
- Lubrication points
- Corrosion protection
- Engine position
Storage procedures vary substantially among engines.
Follow the procedure for your motor, not a generic winterization video for somebody else’s.
Keep Maintenance Records
Keep a simple record of major outboard maintenance.
Record items such as:
- Engine hours
- Engine oil changes
- Oil filter changes
- Gear lubricant changes
- Water-pump service
- Spark-plug replacement
- Fuel-filter service
- Propeller changes
- Repairs
- Battery replacement
- Other scheduled maintenance
Include dates and engine hours when available.
Maintenance records help you know what’s due and can add value when the boat is eventually sold.
For a serialized Tin Can build, the Digital Owner’s Manual can identify the original outboard and provide a permanent starting point for future maintenance records.
Know Your Outboard
At minimum, record:
- Manufacturer
- Model
- Model number
- Serial number
- Horsepower
- Year where known
- Fuel requirements
- Oil specifications
- Propeller specifications
Take a clear photograph of the engine identification label.
That information can make finding manuals, parts and service information much easier later.
When Should You Get Professional Help?
Routine owner inspection and basic maintenance are one thing.
Engine diagnosis and repair are another.
Consider qualified service when you experience:
- Persistent overheating
- Oil-pressure warnings
- Fuel leaks
- Significant lower-unit damage
- Water-contaminated gear lubricant
- Major electrical problems
- Persistent starting problems
- Severe vibration
- Loss of power
- Internal engine noise
- Repeated alarms
- Steering problems
- Problems beyond your ability to diagnose safely
Don’t continue operating an engine that’s clearly telling you something is wrong.
Getting back to the ramp today isn’t worth turning a manageable repair into a destroyed engine tomorrow.
Dependability Starts in the Driveway
Outboard maintenance doesn’t have to be complicated.
Know which motor you own.
Follow its maintenance schedule.
Use the correct fuel and lubricants.
Keep the cooling system working.
Check the propeller.
Pay attention to corrosion.
Listen when the engine behaves differently.
And fix small problems before they become large ones.
A dependable outboard shouldn’t be the most interesting part of a fishing trip.
It should start, run and get you back to the ramp.
Then you can spend your time worrying about something more important.
Where the fish are.
Tin Can Boat Works
Small Boats. Serious Fishing.